Modern Details: Small Pour
I love a half glass of wine, a shallow fragrant pool at the bottom of the bowl.
I first came to appreciate the joys of restrained quantities of wine served in good glass wear when I was fortunate enough to score a table at Catalonia’s El Bulli in 2009. The parade of courses at this legendary (now sadly closed) restaurant were so numerous that to accompany them with fuller glasses would have required the installation of vomitorium. But the elegance of the small servings was notable, underlining the fact that this was food and drink to really absorb and bewitched by - not a blow-out or what the Beano used to call a ‘slap-up feast. From then on, a judicious more-than-a-splash at the base of a glass was known in my house as “the Bulli pour”.
There are functional benefits to the half glass, too: white wine doesn’t get warm, varietals can breathe priorly, releasing the full, glorious complexity of their characters; and you can try a dizzying number without getting too dizzy.
Article from Gentlewoman Issue N°18, Autumn and Winter 2018
Text: Martina O’Loughlin
Photos: by me
Glasses from Květná glass factory in Czech Republic, photos taken in Object, Brno